Ekma
The history book of ancient Arabian Kingdoms (author: Florent Egal)
The history book of ancient Arabian Kingdoms (author: Florent Egal)
During antiquity the northwest of the Arabian Peninsula was at the crossroads of the caravan trade between Yemen and the empires of Egypt, the Levant, Greece, Rome, Mesopotamia, and Persia. Although the rich oases were coveted by these empires, this area enjoyed a certain autonomy until the Roman conquest in 106 CE. Thanks to control of the wealth brought by the trade of frankincense and spices in the land that corresponds roughly to the modern Provinces of Tabuk, Madinah, and Al-Jawf, some oases grew to the point of becoming independent kingdoms. The most famous oases of the 1st millennium BCE are Tayma, Dumat Al-Jandal, and Dedan, where excavations on extensive archeological sites have revealed the existence of large fortified cities.
These kingdoms developed their own culture including a specific language and alphabet, that resulted in a mix of Arabian traditions and strong influences from the surrounding empires.
In the ancient oasis Dedan, close to today's city of Al-Ula in Madinah Province, a kingdom flourished from at least the 6th century until the 2nd century BCE. There, the kings of Dedan and later Lihyan reigned over a territory that spread at its apogee from the city of Iathrib (today's Madinah) to the Levant.
In their capital Dedan some remains of these brilliant kingdoms have been excavated, including an impressive necropolis whose tombs were dug into the side of Jebel Dedan that overlooks the city on the east.
These tombs are square-shaped holes, cut at different heights out of the side of the mountain, their cavities being about two meters deep.
They are approximately dated to the 5th century BCE, the probable period of the Lihyanite takeover of the region.
Some of these tombs featured interior installations: hollows were carved in the walls or the ground. There are also ordinary individual graves cut in the base of the Jebel Ath-Thumayid, whereas others bear inscriptions giving their owners’ identities; on the slope of the Jebel, some areas were marked out to prepare for future tombs. Remains of bones, shrouds and pieces of wood from the coffins have been found in these graves.
About 1 kilometer south of the main excavation site of Dedan are two exceptional tombs located some 50 meters above the wadi where the ancient oasis was centred. Those are the only tombs that are decorated with two carved lions each, showing the importance of their owners, being governors or influential people.
These sculptures of lions that are an outstanding example of the Mesopotamian influence, and are the proud iconic figures of this ancient oasis.
An inscription on one of these two tombs indicates that it belonged to a member of the Minaic community of Dedan that originated from Ma'in in today's Yemen. The Minaic were the most important trade partners for Dedan and even had a small colony living in the ancient oasis. The other lion tomb dates back to the late Lihyanite period.
The Lion Tombs are accessible from the archeological site of Dedan that is indicated on Google Maps under the name of the modern location, Khuraybah. The entrance is from the Ha'il road (75) east of the junction with the 375 that goes through the city of Al-Ula. The location of the Lion Tombs is also available on Google Maps.
Since 2018 this sites can be visited only in the frame of the Winter at Tantora festival, you will find more information about it on the dedicated website.
Reaching the Lion Tombs involves climbing stairs up fifty meters where the tombs were cut in the cliffs. The reward is twofold: the close view of the lion sculptures and the sight over the oasis.
The proud iconic figures of an ancient Arabian kingdom (author: Florent Egal)
When two petroglyph sites in Ha'il Province - Jubbah and Shuwaymis - were listed as UNESCO World Heritage in 2015, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was finally recognized among countries hosting major pieces of ancient rock art. What is still to be acknowledged is that the country is home of hundreds of thousands of old carvings, including in the Province of Riyadh.
Two sites are particularly famous close to the capital that expatriates have simply named Graffiti Rock 1 and Graffiti Rock 2. The first one is visible from the Makkah Highway, just an hour's drive from Riyadh, close to the settlement of Musayqirah that gave it a local name. There is even a third name, as it is sometimes mentioned under the Arabic Qaryat Al-Asba.
The site is a sandstone rock standing just 200 meters from the main escarpment called Khasm Musayqirah. This escarpment spreads along a north-south axis, creates a natural dam that blocks the flow of water coming from the west and probably contributed to the formation of a lake when the climate of the Arabian Peninsula was more humid. Thus, Musayqirah invites visitors to use their imagination to figure out how this arid place once looked when populated with several species that today are extinct.
The study of Saudi Arabian rock art is quite recent therefore the date of the carvings is still debated and many questions are yet to be answered (the reason why I remain cautious with the information provided in this article). But it appears quite clearly that Graffiti Rock 1 saw people carving on its walls through a wide span of time, probably from the Neolithic era (10 000 to 3 000 BCE) until recent times.
The rock of Musayqirah is one of the very rare known places in Riyadh Province where carvings of water-buffaloes (also called aurochs) can be found, attesting to the previous humid climate of the Arabian Peninsula. They are on the eastern side of the main rock.
They are typically represented with lyre-shaped horns, sometimes of disproportionate size. Such representations are much more common in Ha'il Province, especially at the sites of Jubbah and Shuwaymis.
If some species such as the water buffalo that used to graze on the plain surrounding the ancient lake probably disappeared some 6 000 years ago, other animals like ostriches or gazelles were still found in the Arabian Peninsula at the beginning of the 20th century CE. Lions and ibexes were also present in Saudi Arabia until the Islamic era.
It is interesting to notice that even among the earliest carvings found at Musayqirah humans are represented often in interacting with animals, especially cattle.
Writing is also found in Musayqirah with some Thamudic inscriptions on the southern wall, testifying to human presence at the time of the caravan trade through the Arabian Peninsula that reached its highest intensity during the second part of the 1st millennium BCE.
Battle scenes that are also represented on the site are probably among the most recent ones as they involve domestication of horse and include metallic weapons.
A large panel on the western side of Musayqirah is particularly famous because of the great amount of carvings and variety of representations it carries. There are found ostriches, ibexes, dogs, lions, camels, but also hunters, warriors, a human skeleton, horsemen, and even Thamudic inscriptions, just to mention the most identifiable ones.
The location of Musayqirah (in Arabic: مصيقرة) is indicated on Google Maps, and the location of the carvings, on the southeast of the settlement, appear under the name "Rock Art". There is an exit from the Makkah highway that allows visitors to get close by hardtop, but the last 700 meters have to be done on tracks that can be covered by sand, and for this reason it is still advisable to drive there with a proper 4X4.
The main rock is fenced off but the gate is open most of the time.
Musayqirah – Graffiti Rock 1: the rich past of Riyadh’s region carved in the rock (author: Florent Egal)